6,069 m | Hushe Valley | Karakoram | Pakistan
Welcome to the Laila Peak expedition website. We are finalising the preparations for the 2022 expedition. We are looking for a team of maximum 4 people to attempt the climb in a light alpine style one of the more beautiful and unique mountains in the Karakoram range.
The Laila Peak expedition 2022 is coordinated by Pepe Ivars
Laila Peak is considered to be the most beautiful peak in the Karakoram and would challenge Ama Dablam and Khan Tengri as the most stunning peak in the world! It is a technical climbing peak situated on the famous circuit that links the Hushe valley with Concordia on the K2 and the Gondogoro La trek…viewed by thousands and climbed by few! From the summit you can see all the major summits of the Karakoram including K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums
Laila Peak is in the Hushe Valley, near Gondogoro Glacier in Karakorum range and is 6,096 metres (20,000 ft) high (estimated).
It has a distinctive spear-like shape. Its northwest face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical metres. It has been climbed by Simon Yates (1st unofficial ascent) and Alex Txikon (1st Winter ascent), among others but according to locals Laila has been climbed very few times.
Central Karakoram
Laila Peak (لیلی چوٹی) is located in the Hushe Valley near Gondogoro Glacier in the Karakoram range. Located in Gilgit-Baltistan.
The peak is situated in central Karakoram, but is quite easy to access from Hushe village, via a road from Skardu.
Climbing season
The climbing season runs from June until September. Very few climb in the Karakoram Range during the winter months, due to high levels of precipitation. Regardless of which month is chosen, climbing conditions are far from ideal. One of the main issues climbers face is that snow does not always freeze overnight, and climbing this soft snow for long periods is extremely tiring.
Climbing Permits
The mountain lies in a restricted zone. The village of Hushe is the gateway to the mountain, in the Masherbrum Valley below but the Gondogoro and Chogolisa valleys are restricted. In order for non Pakistani citizens to visit these valleys a permit must be purchased from the Ministry of Tourism ($50 per person), and a licensed guide is required for the duration.
Alex Txikon and Jose M Fernandez first Winter ascent:
Laila expedition Ramon Portilla, Carlos Suarez, Dario Barrio. BASE jump attempt:
If you are interested in receiving the Sponsorship Pack for this expedition, please contact us:
Laila Peak Expedition 2022 